Crete

From West to East


The West

Samaria Gorge

The Samaria Gorge in Crete is the longest gorge in Europe, with the trail spanning 10 miles from start to finish. You start at the top of the gorge, where there is a small gift shop and café with sandwiches, snacks, and coffee. You then slowly hike down towards the bottom of the gorge on a zig-zag path. The stones on the path are rather slippery, so it would be much better hiked with hiking shoes or at least tennis shoes with a good grip. There are also several rest stops (I think there were 7-8 in total) along the way with picnic benches, restrooms, and running water. Some people drink the running water, but it didn’t look super clean so we just drank from the water we brought.

Falling rocks are common, & there are wire nets over certain areas of the trail that are more at risk

Fire Safety

Higher up in the trail, there is significant fire risk so there are many fire extinguishers and fire stations along the trail, with a pipeline system running alongside the trail.

At the end of the gorge, there is an area you can sit down with a stand selling fresh orange juice and beer, and further on there a couple of other snack bars. It is about a mile from the end of the trail to the town of Agia Roumeli, which you can walk or pay €2 to take a bus. Agia Roumeli is a very small town with restaurants, cafes, hotels, beaches, and the ferry port. Definitely bring a swimsuit because you will be dying to get in the water at the end of the trail. If I were to do the trail again, I would probably stay in a hotel then make my way back the next day. The last ferry leaves at 1730, so you must make sure to be in town a bit before then. 

Agia Roumeli
Ferry ride back
Stop via ferry on the way back

The Middle

Rethymno

Crete’s third largest town. We briefly stopped by it on our way from Heraklion to Chania. It is rather touristy, full of restaurants and giftshops spanning alongside a more populated beach. Though we did not explore them, more popular attractions include the Venetian Rethymno Fortezza, Municipal Gardens, Nerantzes Mosque, Rimondi Fountain, Rethymno Archaeological Museum, the beach, and the inner harbor. 

Heraklion

Heraklion, pronounced Iraklio, is the largest city in Crete with both a ferry port and airport. We arrived and left from Heraklion, but otherwise did not spend much time here. One of the most popular attractions in Heraklion is Ancient Knossos as below.

Mount Ida (Psiloritis)

The tallest mountain in Crete with an elevation of 8,058 ft. It is most accessible from a trail that starts at the Nida Plateau. This trail is 5.1 miles to the peak and back with 2,916ft of elevation gain. The top of the mountain is extremely windy and cold, so make sure to brain a jacket!

The start

We stayed in Krousonas, a small authentic mountain town about 20-30 minutes from Heraklion, and about 1.5 hours from Mount Ida. Heraklion is just over an hour drive from Mount Ida. The roads in and out of the mountains are extremely windy, not great for those who easily get carsick. Though we did not have time to stop, there are also various caves in the area, the most well-known being the Idaean Cave or Cave of Zeus.  

Sheep and goats are common on the trail

The East


The Beaches

The water around Crete is absolutely gorgeous, composed of clear green-blue water surrounding rocky cliffs or sandy beaches. Most of the Beaches around Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion, and Hersonissos are very crowded and touristy during peak season unfortunately. They are still beautiful, and if you don’t mind the crowds they are great spots to stop by. There is a popular pink sand beach, Elafonisi Beach, which in the southwestern area of the island, and was a bit out of the way for us so we did not go. Here are a couple of gems we found that were less crowded. 

Fodele Beach

A small beach we found driving between Chania and Heraklion. It is directly next to the Taverna Opou Vastaxi, a great place to get lunch or dinner.

Fodele Beach

Spinalonga Peninsula

This whole island has gorgeous areas to swim along the trail that loops around the island. The main beach area is Kolokitha Beach, which tends to be more crowded, but as long as you’re willing to walk a bit further you can find completely unoccupied areas. We snorkeled at one of the bays about mid-way along the trail, which was fantastic. We saw needle fish, Mediterranean parrotfish, crabs, and many other fish around the rocky landscape of the bay. 

Kolokitha Beach
Bay along Spinolonga Peninsula Trail
Dolmades or Dolma: rice and ground meat (lamb or beef) wrapped in grape leaves

Food & Drink

The food is absolutely amazing – it tastes so fresh and generally is pretty healthy as the Mediterranean diet is dubbed to be. My personal favorite dishes included moussaka, Greek salad, shrimp saganaki, and chicken souvlaki. As far as meats go, Chicken, lamb, and pork predominate. By the shores there is also a good amount of seafood. Of note we did not come across any places that had gyros in the sense that I think of them in the US, but there were several cafes with build-your-own sandwich, which would have gyro meat and ingredients on a baguette. 

Dakos: toasted bread (similar to croutons) soaked in olive oil, topped with crushed tomato and feta
Moussaka: Casserole with eggplant, ground meat (lamb or beef), potato, and cheese

Pan-seared Cheese
Shrimp Saganaki: shrimp cooked in a tomato and feta base
Chicken Souvlaki: typically served with fries and salad
Lamb Chops
Horiatiki or Greek Salad: Tomato, cucumber, onions, olives, and peppers drizzled with olive oil and vinegar and topped with feta cheese and dried oregano

The traditional restaurants are called Tavernas, with smaller ones called cafes. The restaurants aimed towards tourists are much more expensive and not as good, I would recommend trying to find a local restaurant in a small village along the way or even along the side of the road. The portions at these places are huge, and they are very cheap, so it is easy to over-order. They will bring you a free desert – such as fruit and a little cake, as well as the traditional liquor, Raki, sometimes – at the end of your meal. Tipping is not required, as in American culture. When paying they do not even ask for a tip. However, if the service is really good you can leave a cash tip. Here are a couple of Tavernas we really enjoyed:

Opou Vastaxi

We found this gem driving from Heraklion to Chania. It has a beautiful view of the water, great food, and is right next to the small, less populated Fodele Beach 

Amoudara Spiridakis

A Taverna in Krousonas, a small authentic town in the mountains south of Heraklion. Great food for a great price, with a view of the mountains.

Taverna Christinis

A great local Taverna we stopped at between Elounda and Heraklion.


Pastries

Coffee shops and cafes are common, filled with a variety of pastries including Spanakopita (a pastry made with phyllo dough wrapped around spinach and feta), Triopita (a pastry filled with cheese and sometimes ham), Koulouri (a ring-shaped bread that can we sweet or savory), and Baklava (a very sweet pastry made with phyllo dough, layered with nuts and soaked in syrup or honey).

Drinks

Coffee

Traditional coffee shops are very espresso-based. My go-to coffee is cold brew, but they did not have these. Initially I ordered ice americanos, but then discovered a new favorite – Freddo Cappuccino, which is composed of iced espresso topped with foamed milk. Another popular drink was Freddo Espresso, simply iced espresso. I tried Greek coffee once, which is brewed so that some of the grounds are in the coffee. The one I had was very bitter and I did not like it, so steered clear of those from that point forwards. 

Alcohol

the traditional liquor is Raki, a clear grape-based brandy that doesn’t have much flavor. Rakomelo is a traditional drink made from miking Raki with honey and sometimes spices.  


– Kaló taksídi –